If you’ve read much of anything here at all at Daniel of Arabica, you’ll notice there isn’t much about espresso. It’s not my forté. I love it – don’t get me wrong – and I’ve pulled my share of good (and bad) shots myself. A rich, sweet, buttery shot at San Francisco’s Sightglass or a smooth, caramelly shot of the Retrofit at Blue Bottle’s Ferry Building location, in the same city, are things of beauty. But here in “The Lab” at Daniel of Arabica, I’ve currently not the will nor the resources to give the art of espresso its rightful due.
That being said, there is no way, after reading CoffeeGeek’s enthusiastic and decidedly positive review (supplemented, it must be said, by some absolutely beautiful photography care of CoffeeGeek’s master of ceremonies Mark Prince) of Kees van der Westen’s stunningly gorgeous “Speedster” single-group espresso machine, that I’m not tempted to begin stashing away the money I’ll need to be able to buy one of these beauties.
The Robusta debate continues. Back in April Jerry Baldwin, best known for co-founding Starbucks and purchasing Peet’s in 1984 and so arguably a bellwether of “the old guard”, argued against the inclusion of Robusta in espresso blends. Now, we have an adherent of 3rd wave principles of coffee preparation lamenting the removal of this much maligned strain of bean from a legendary and seminal 3rd wave coffee purveyor’s signature espresso blend.
Has the world has gone mad?
It’s another day in The Mission. There must be another café opening. To the long list of “coffee v3.0″ (aka CV3) cafés in the Mission neighborhood of San Francisco, you can add one more: Haus.
Haus opened just last month and, as far as San Francisco café concepts go, it’s definitely on the novel side. Most cafés that have opened up recently here in San Francisco, it seems, have a roaster attached to them – they roast in-house and sell their own beans – but there’s another model for the CV3 café that hasn’t been put into practice as much here as it has on our other coast’s nascent coffee mecca, New York City. That model presents the same care and respect for the bean as the in-house roasting group but features coffee from either respected local roasters or from roasters with a solid reputation from all over the country. Haus veers more toward the former by featuring coffees from two highly respected local roasters: Ritual and De La Paz. Haus offers espresso and press-pot coffee. When I came in, they were offering Ritual’s Hopscotch on the espresso machine and De La Paz (a Costa Rica…whose name escapes me and which I can’t find any reference to on their website) from the press. I’m not sure weather that lineup will change – I’d love it if there was some variety – and I’m also unsure weather Ritual will exclusively preside over the espresso side while De La Paz takes the press-pot. I’ll need to look into this a bit more.
This scrap is a preliminary look – I’ll have a more detailed exploration after I’ve given Haus a few good tries – so I won’t go into excruciating details at this point. But, a few points:
What I liked:
What I didn’t care for as much:
Like I said, preliminary. Gotta give a café a chance, after all. In the meantime, check out Man Seeking Coffee’s take on Haus. I’ll be back.
McDonalds is now Starbucks’ main competitor and Starbucks has nobody to blame but themselves. By opening up so many stores and introducing so many “frou-frou” drinks that they commodified the coffee buying experience, Starbucks gutted the value proposition of buying an espresso drink at their stores and, in so doing, created a monster in their own competitive space by inviting the king of commodified food service operaters – McDonalds – into the business of selling coffee. Starbucks has gone for the big middle ground and given McDonalds a new lease on life in becoming the scrappy underdog in the battle for the palettes of middle-america. Good job, Starbucks.
The wonderful thing about all of this is that Starbucks has made plenty of room for the so called “third wave” of coffee to gain a foothold in the marketplace. The commodification process Starbucks has undergone has allowed other shops to compete on the quality of their product. While Starbucks’ focus in making you an espresso drink is to get it in your hands as fast as they can, others are focussing on making sure that the beverage you are holding in your hand is of a certain quality: that the money you just shelled out is reflected in the integrity of the drink. They are bringing the craft back to the espresso bar. Good job, Starbucks.
In honor of the announcement that Starbucks will be closing 600 stores nationwide, a list of posts on Starbucks here at Dan Markham dot net.
Menu and Message at Ninth Street via Tonx @ FlickrThe message reads:
As artisans we have spent much time and energy refining our culinary craft. We take great pride in offering you our menu, which consists of a core group of drinks that we believe showcases the natural beauty of coffee. ¶It is our policy not to deviate from these recipes or to compromise the integrity of our craft, the craft of our roasters, or the craft of the farmers the world over whose labor we are entrusted to present. ¶Please feel free to ask your barista if you have any questions regarding our menu or recipes. ¶Thank you and enjoy. ¶The Baristas of Ninth Street Espresso
To that, I say: bravo!, amen & much props. I wish I could put this up where I work but, alas, tis not possible.
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